Atc belay device meaning. comCamping trips, hiking out, walking tours, backpacking and other outdoor activities require usage of specific equipment and tools. A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. com An ATC is the most popular belay device for climbing, but that doesn’t mean it’s the best. The ATC does have a series of undercuts, which hint at investment cast as a probable metal-forming technique. The ATC XP is designed in the classic tube shape but with a pair of toothed grooves on one side for greater friction. Aug 26, 2021 · Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device (Guide)—I believe that ATCs still have an important place in rock climbing. 1 and 8. The belay device Properly, the ATC belay device is manufactured by Black Diamond Equipment. Thanks to introduction of belay devices the belaying Dec 24, 2017 · Chris Van Leuven used the Black Diamond ATC Pilot to catch gear-ripping falls and liked its simple design and smooth rope handling so well that it became his go-to belay device for single-pitch cragging. Atc belay device meaning how does an work pilot guide belaying outdoor gear to use black diamond atc-xp instructions stands for - expocafeperu. They make it easier and Belay device, a full history Vertical caving terminology and methods > Ladders, climbs and older techniques Belay device, belaying device, belay, belay plate, Sticht plate, stitch plate, ATC, ABD A very basic ATC belay device, and an auto-locking GriGri. However, BD’s ATC was so popular that it had the “Kleenex effect. These teeth provide more friction in the event of a fall. Dec 16, 2022 · What's a Belay Device? A Brief History of Belay Devices Top Roping and Lead Belaying Rappelling with a Belay Device The Different Types of Belay Devices Comparison Table 1. Figure-8 belay devices (e. Our information is regulated by Big Data and AI - dependable online platforms responsible in verifying and proofreading information from various online sources. [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. The brake teeth on the ATC-XP differentiate it from the ATC. It is used in the same way as traditional tube-style devices, meaning that it is very user friendly and a great introduction into Atc guide belay device meaning instructions how to use belaying outdoor gear black diamond atc-xp atc-guide pilot - expocafeperu. Feb 21, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “ geometry assisted ” belay device for ropes in the 8. That is the standard system, needing two people, specialist climbing equipment and the knowledge of how to use it. An Italian hitch Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. Jul 11, 2018 · After using the ATC Pilot for a few sessions both indoors and out, I came away with the following thoughts, feelings and conclusions. I don’t care what my belayer is using so long as they are going to catch me if I fall. com The ATC belay device from Black Diamond is one of the most popular rappel devices in the world. It just kind of worked its way into common language to refer to any tube-style belay device. In this respect it is very much like its predecessor, the BD ATC-XP, and innumerable other similar devices. Mar 7, 2019 · An ATC or Air Traffic Controller is a type of belay and rappel device manufactured by Black Diamond Equipment. It secures a climber as they are going up or down the wall. It is possible to dynamically belay both leader and the second, while the second can be belayed by tope rope belay either with the body or from top belay Jul 27, 2025 · What is an ATC A Black Diamond ATC is a belay and rappel device made by the gear manufacturer, Black Diamond Equipment. The Black Diamond ATC Belay Device The Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller, or ATC for short, is Black Diamond’s flagship belay device. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Tube-Style Belay Devices How they work: Tube-style devices like the Black Diamond ATC or Petzl Reverso are very similar to the original belay device which was simply a metal plate with two holes in it. Aug 20, 2024 · In lead climbing and sports climbing, an "ATC Pilot" is a specific type of belay device made by Black Diamond. Is an ATC better than a Grigri? We break down the differences between the types of belay devices and share our favorites for different types of climbing. Jul 8, 2021 · ATC stands for “Air Traffic Controller”, which is a tube-like belay device manufactured by Black Diamond. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. ATC. So, learning through ATC is much better. Longer What is a climbing belay device? A climbing belay device is a tool used by climbers to control the rope holding a climber in case the climber falls and/or when the climber needs to be lowered. Mar 16, 2022 · Belaying may be the most critical skill you need to participate in the sport of rock climbing safely. The selection of Atc belay device instructions stands for meaning how to use belaying outdoor gear black diamond atc-xp atc-guide - expocafeperu. Black Diamond’s most tried and true belay device was named the ATC to facetiously draw the connection between a falling climber and an aircraft trying to land at the airport. The oval-ized anchor-ho For example, the way you set up a belay and manage to lower is different on an ATC than it is on an Auto-locking belay device such as a Grigri. Atc will also fail in some cases if your seconds falls while he’s making his own clove hitch at the belay. ” (This was a joke on the part of Black Diamond, given that the ATC’s primary use is to belay or “control” a climber high in the air on a rope, or allow a climber to control their descent. com Jul 16, 2014 · Belay transitions can be the real time-suck of multi-pitch climbing. A common type of belay device is an ATC, which features two slots for feeding through a bite of rope, and a wire keeper. We have grouped belay devices into different categories that show how they have evolved over the years: Figure 8s, ATCs, Passive Assisted Braking Devices, and The belay device, which is a mechanism that helps the belayer ‘catch’ the climber by creating more friction on the rope or locking it in place with a braking device. Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. Learn how here. This way, climbers don’t fall very far when they fall. At the end of the day knowing how to rappel with an ATC will lead to grander rappel adventures, descending heights and reaching destinations that previously were inaccessible. com Gearing Up to Belay When you take a belay class, typically a rope, harness, helmet (if climbing outdoors), locking carabiner, belay device and rock shoes are either provided or available for rent. However, there are two exceptions to mention. If it pulls the belayer via the harness belay loop, you’re good to go. But how do you rappel with an ATC? Are you taking a belay test soon and wondering how to pass your belay certification? Learning how to belay is an important skill for any climber. Feb 22, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC XP is one of our favorite manual belay devices and provides an excellent value. Dec 22, 2022 · However, which device is best for you is much less clear. I. The Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) was made to provide the greatest support in most rappels and help you to maintain significant control. Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. This definition emphasizes the crucial role of the stationary climber (the belayer) in ensuring the safety of the moving climber (the climber ascending). Many climbing gyms have guests use the Petzl Grigri, one of the premier assisted braking devices. com. , any modern ATC clone with teeth will be fine. Brand new out of the package, that rope is a little on the Atc belay device meaning pilot best how to use belaying outdoor gear black diamond atc-guide belay/rappel instructions - expocafeperu. How to pass a belay certification? How to use atc belay device meaning review belaying outdoor gear black diamond instructions atc-xp atc-guide belay/rappel device-2018 - expocafeperu. Feb 13, 2010 · The ATC is the second smallest and lightest belay device tested, the first being the Petzl Verso, which is more expensive. No, the instructions do mention it: The ATC-XP is a variable friction device, meaning that it has a high friction mode (HFM) and a regular friction mode (RFM). comFirst on the list of proper outdoor gear should be your backpack. They are made out of aluminum. The ATC was initially a specific belay device developed by Black Diamond. Black diamond atc belay device instructions what is best how does an work belaying outdoor gear meaning atc-xp pilot - expocafeperu. The person holding the belay rope, or the belayer, pulls the rope through a belay device as the climber goes up. However, three main types of devices exist: tubular belay devices, assisted braking belay devices, and the figure 8. 3 ropes in general, and I've used that exact rope on a GG2 and it was fine as well. 3 and I love how it feels in a GG. A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. Here’s a review from an REI expert. ATC stands for Air Traffic Control. The ATC, or Air Traffic Control, is a belay device that is used to control the rope when rappelling or lowering a climber. For an overview of basic climbing gear, see Getting Started Rock Climbing. Once the climber is tied in, the belayer must set up their belay device. com Hi, I'm just curious to know which belay devices you (as a climber) prefer for sport climbing? I had no problem with my belayers having either an ATC or an assisted braking device such as Grigri, ATC pilot etc as long as the belayer feels safe and competent. I don't like being belayed on 8 mm or 8. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. The Black Diamond ATC and ATC-XP are very similar in design and function and are both incredibly easy to use. Dec 5, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. Tube devices are superior to plates for rappelling since they allow precise control of your descent speed. Why is aluminum the main material used for belay devices? I also want to touch on the subject of constraints. A device used by belayers to pull a lifeline through as a climber climbs, and to stop it from moving when a climber falls. It features a groove that allows the rope to flow smoothly while also creating friction to regulate the speed of descent. 5 mm range. In the HFM the ATC-XP has two to Best atc belay device meaning black diamond instructions belaying outdoor gear atc-xp how to use atc-guide xp - expocafeperu. com OG ATC, meaning no teeth? Get a new ATC, Reverso, Pivot, etc. Like its… Shop for Belay and Rappel Devices at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Aug 24, 2018 · Belay devices are experiencing a renaissance of sorts, with more innovative options on the market than ever. How to use atc belay device instructions review belaying outdoor gear pilot meaning black diamond atc-xp belay/rappel atc-alpine guide - expocafeperu. Sorta like how you can ask for a “Coke” and people know you mean soda. Apr 13, 2016 · A burly, ultra-light, do-it-all belay device There’s a reason you can just say “ATC,” and every climber will know you mean a tube-style belay/rappel device. atc (belay device): definitions, meanings, uses, synonyms, antonyms, derivatives, analogies in sensagent dictionaries (English) The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. Feb 12, 2024 · The device’s machined window makes it lighter than the original ATC-Guide belay device and its durable, hot-forged aluminium construction will last you ages. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. ” Every tube-like belay device produced after the ATC by other brands was also called an ATC, just like every tissue paper is called Kleenex by most people. Aug 22, 2016 · Air Traffic Controller. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. It costs very little and last a long time. 7 to 10. Nov 6, 2022 · One of the climbing market’s most famous and trusted belay devices is the Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller or ATC. Belay devices play a critical role in rock climbing, acting as a system that controls the rope during a climber’s ascent and descent. Learn how to choose a belay device for rock climbing. Gri gri is fine with 9. The original Black Diamond “ATC” shares its name with an acronym that more commonly stands for “Air Traffic Controller. They vary in price, ease of use, safety features, and level of assistance with braking. Exchanging gear, restacking the rope, eating, drinking, and whatever else you might need to handle at the belay stance can really burn away those precious daylight hours, so it’s crucial to be as efficient as possible. We use these ATC devices because they make belaying easier by creating friction. Often copied but never equaled, the Black Diamond ATC belay device provides lightweight yet durable belaying and rappelling performance anytime, anywhere. Use it in the HFM when you want more holding power as when using small diameter ropes, rappelling a single line and while belaying a climber working a route. Feb 22, 2020 · Belaying is an often overlooked, but essential skill to safe climbing, we share how to belay when climbing safely for top roping and lead climbing. 5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6. Five stars. Atc belay device review stands for meaning how to use belaying outdoor gear black diamond pilot instructions atc-guide belay/rappel device-2018 atc-xp - expocafeperu. The ATC is a dynamic belay device. In climbing, a belayer holds a lead climber’s rope and feeds it out as the leader advances upward. Things don’t get more reliable. There are many types of equipment available to lovers of nature who prefer to spend time communing with the outdoors. It increases the friction rate of the rope resulting in reducing the amount of total force which the belayer has to hold by the strength of his/hers arms. Size matters when deciding on your backpack. com These are sometimes called “passive assisted braking devices” or “semi-automatic tube-style devices,” and are somewhat less common. com Atc belay device meaning black diamond instructions pilot what is belaying outdoor gear how to use atc-guide atc-xp best review - expocafeperu. These devices are used and popular among climbing gyms. For weekend camping, a medium sized backpack would be a good start. Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. Mar 10, 2025 · Feed a bite of rope through one of the slots in the belay device. Jan 3, 2024 · The ATC climbing device, which stands for Air Traffic Control, is a tube-style belay device, usually with two holes and a plastic-wrapped loop of braided wire connected to the underside. If we do our job correctly, by the end of this article, you’ll know which belay device is best for you. Which belay device should I use? The available belay devices all range from inexpensive (around $15) to pricey ($150 and up) and offer different things in terms of ease of use, assistance with braking, and additional safety features. Belay Definition: The safety provided by a stationary climber to a moving climber with the help of a rope, and a belaying device is called belaying. ) The Jan 4, 2024 · We break down every type of belay device and talk about where belaying started, and talk about which devices work best for your style of climbing. Atc style belay device will fail in some cases when you have 2 seconds coming to the belay horizontally (traverse) if I remember correctly. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. 0 Jan 14, 2025 · For the few pennies extra which it costs I prefer to have a dedicated belay device for half ropes, and for that my favourite is the ATC Alpine Guide (the green one). Beginners using assisted-braking belay devices such as GriGri can lead to many unsafe things. It’s so widely used that its proper name has nearly taken over the entire genre. However, in the case of the Black Diamond ATC, the device has a complex geometry and no traces of stamping or similar procedures. The grigri/atc debate comes down the the argument that a component belayer doesn’t need a brake assist. Auto-Belay Devices The auto-belay device is designed for climbers to sport climb without a belayer. Keep reading to learn about the Grigri vs. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? What is the Best ATC Belaying Device in 2024? Here's a list of the Top 9 ATC devices for belaying based on our experiences and expertise. There are three main types of belay devices, the tubular ATC, the auto-locking belay device and the semi-assisted belay devices. It belongs to a group of belay devices which are in the Czech Republic called the “buckets”. We really expected the newer devices with friction grooves to blow this old school model away but we were impressed with how the ATC pays out climbing rope as well, and maybe better, than many of the newer models. Its construction is based on the early Sticht plate. Atc belay device meaning how to use stands for does an work belaying outdoor gear guide black diamond atc-guide review atc-xp belay/rappel - expocafeperu. However, using an assisted-braking device such as GriGri feels safer compared to the riskier side of the ATC. While belaying may seem straightforward, there are a lot of ways a belayer can make a climber feel safe and secure Mar 2, 2023 · When teaching the proper belaying technique to new climbers, ATC is the go-to device for learning. The number of camping days is another consideration. 5 mm half ropes in a high fall factor situation from a full size ATC or Reverso, especially if clipping the two strands separately. g. A. The original Air Traffic Controller was an immediate hit when it was What does an ATC do in rock climbing? The ATC is one of the most common belay devices used in rock climbing. Belay devices attach to the harness, and sometimes the harness is anchored to the ground with a lanyard. Assisted braking tube devices Mammut Smart 2. Honestly the TC 9. It has since become so popular and its design has been replicated by other brands. ATC stands for “Air Traffic Controller”, which is a tube-like belay device manufactured by Black Diamond. It's not the absolute cheapest option but is the lowest priced one in our review. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Mar 20, 2025 · Introduction to Belay Devices Yes, there are several types of belay devices, each designed to cater to different climbing styles and safety needs. com Apr 28, 2025 · The climber should make sure the belayer’s device is set up properly: The rope is threaded through everything, and the carabiner is locked. Dec 13, 2023 · Manual braking belay devices like the ATC require the belayer to be at the top of their game, never removing their hand from the brake line while in use. To ensure the safety of the climber and of the belayer, get professional training for belaying. Belaying your follower (or followers) with an auto-blocking device set up directly on the anchor allows Nov 22, 2021 · What does ATC stand for medical? What is belay in rock climbing? What is an Autoblock in climbing? The term “ATC” stands for “air traffic controller,” which was originally the name of one of Black Diamond Equipment’s belay devices, and has now been the standard term for all the brand’s devices with the same design. General use The ATC Pilot is incredibly intuitive to use, especially for climbers who already have experience using belay devices. Check with your climbing instructor to see if you need to bring any additional gear. And that any climber would prefer a competent belayer rather than a fancy belay device. It is a type of tubular aperture belay device. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. It Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. Atc’s are probably preferred by the old guard. This friction is Belay device is a tool by which the person providing belay (belayer) controls the rope during fall arrest of the climber. Nov 17, 2023 · The ATC is a line of tubular belay devices produced by Black Diamond. The self-belay device allows the rope to pass through when climbing normally and self-locked when the rope passes through reaching a certain velocity such as a fall. 3 feels on the fat side for a 9. Includes the pros and cons of tubular, assisted braking and Figure 8 devices. Plate-style belay devices (e. I tend to agree. Jun 4, 2025 · What is a tube style belay device? Tube style belay devices are one of the most common styles for belay devices in rock climbing today. With both designs, you run the rope through the belay device and secure both the device and the rope through a locking carabiner (see photo). 9 to 9mm. Many climbing gyms will ask to see your belay certification or do a test before you are allowed to belay. Nov 13, 2007 · The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. com Newbie climber here, what is the difference in the belay devices from black diamond? Specifically the ATC, the ATC-XP, and the Figure 8. Belay devices use friction created by a bend in the rope to catch falls and lower climbers. Use it in the RFM under normal circumstances. Belay device therefore facilitates the fall arrest of the climber. Knowing which belay device to use for every occasion and how to operate the device properly is key for safety and success when it comes to climbing ropes. Atc belay device stands for meaning review xp belaying outdoor gear pilot black diamond atc-guide belay/rappel best device-2018 - expocafeperu. With it you can belay on top rope and lead in sport and trad climbing, as well as rappel from the top of a route. Proper understanding and selection of these devices can significantly enhance safety and climbing efficiency Dec 11, 2023 · We breakdown the most owned and most wanted tube style belay devices among WeighMyRack users and explain why climbers love using them. It is a tubular device, which gives it more area and steeper angles for creating friction and stopping power than a Sticht plate belay device. In the event of a fall, expected or unexpected Jun 28, 2018 · While there are several techniques that “belaying” refers to, in general, belaying is the act of exerting tension on a climbing rope to counterbalance the climber when they fall. Belay devices are useful in ziplines if someone is operating a braking system at the end of the run. It can also handle a variety of rope sizes. Types of belay devices: Your belay Atc belay device stands for belaying instructions meaning outdoor gear black diamond atc-guide review atc-alpine guide best - expocafeperu. What Does ATC Stand For In Climbing? ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. , Kong Oka) 3. Do this double-check every single time either person is about to climb, meaning you might go Best atc belay device guide how to use black diamond instructions belaying outdoor gear pilot review meaning atc-xp atc-guide belay/rappel - expocafeperu. Introduction In mountaineering and rock climbing, belaying is the lifeline. trueThe ATC (a brand name from Black Diamond, other similar devices include petzl reverso, wild country VC, trango pyramid and bunch of others) is pretty much the standard belay device. It is the basis for a relationship of absolute trust between climber and belayer, because the belayer, literally, holds the climber’s life in their hands. Oct 1, 2021 · The ATC is a belay device used by a person on the ground – the belayer – to manage the rope attached to the climber and catch falls. Atc belay device stands for meaning black diamond instructions how does an work belaying outdoor gear pilot review to use atc-xp atc-guide belay/rappel - expocafeperu. The ATC is a friction-based belay and rappel device that uses bends in the rope and contact with the devices surface to increase friction, which then allows for much easier slowing down or stopping of the rope from moving through the device Just so you know- ATC technically only refers to Black Diamond's tube-style belay device, which they named ATC (Air Traffic Controller). We also offer top-rated Atc Belay Device Meaning's detailed buying guide with accurate, unbiased, and authentic information. com Aug 6, 2021 · Not sure which belay device to get? We tested the Petzl GriGri 2 and Black Diamond ATC side-by-side to help you know which is right for you. Tube-style devices Black Diamond ATC Black Diamond ATC Guide Black Diamond ATC-XP 4. What Is An ATC? ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. Here, we review and recommend the best assisted-braking belay devices for rock climbing. com Feb 9, 2020 · How to belay properly is the most essential skill in climbing, because catching a fall well hinges entirely on the belayer. Best atc belay device meaning how to use xp belaying outdoor gear atc-xp black diamond instructions pilot - expocafeperu. com Feb 22, 2020 · The belay device you choose to use will depend on personal preference and the type of climbing you do. , Kong Gigi) 2. If he falls and the clove hitch is not complete the carabiner will prevent the atc from blocking. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8. You just need to get used to it. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. An ATC needs to be clipped into the harness with a locking carabiner, the rope then runs through the bottom of the device, around the carabiner, and then back out through the top ATC Guide by American company Black Diamond is practical and very popular belay device. It is a manual device, meaning braking is achieved by the belayer pulling the brake strand of the rope into such a position that maximizes friction between the rope and the device/carabiner. It is designed to offer assisted braking, meaning it helps the belayer catch a fall more easily. Assisted braking devices like the GriGri are designed to clamp down on the rope to help the belayer arrest a fall, which can add a layer of security but some argue that the device can make the Jan 15, 2018 · The new Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a lightweight assisted braking belay device for single-pitch climbs. According to BD, these grooves offer three times more stopping power than the smooth-sided A Grigri is a belay device that comes with an assisted break feature, meaning if your BF accidentally lets go of the rope while belaying the device will catch (stopping the rope and preventing the climber from falling). Sep 18, 2023 · What Does ATC Stand for in Climbing? The term “ ATC ” in climbing stands for “ Air Traffic Control “. “To belay” is a term with nautical origins that involves securing a rope around another object, for example, a cleat, to stop it from moving. Test the system by pulling on both strands of rope coming out of the belay device. qmvu evnh rtmu letyy jtuffg ecdyx bkfamb jgiz rmmm hrrpx