Rappel with prusik. The principle behind the prusik loop is this.

Rappel with prusik. The Prusik slides easily up and down the rope, but under force it will cinch down, supporting a huge amount of weight. si Rappelling is a nerve wracking endeavor when starting out in Canyoneering. To tie a prusik, you will need a length of 6mm cordelette (also known as an accessory cord). Whether using a tandem Prusik belay or advanced mechanical devices like the CLUTCH or MPD, these systems ensure a safer To backup a rappel you need to tie a friction knot like a Prusik to catch you if you let go of the rope. How to handle a stuck prusik hitch It the self belay prusik hitch activates, either intentionally or unexpectedly, the rescuer's weight will have to be unloaded from the prusik hitch to loosen it. Dec 28, 2010 · Extending the rappel device away from your body with a short lanyard off of a belay loop is an acceptable practice and helpful to eliminate the probability that the prusik will bind in the rappel device. I like to have my left (upper) hand on the autobloc, with my right below it on the rappel rope (as Maria does, above). Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. LONG-LASTING DURABILITY: Specially engineered Ocean Polyester construction provides exceptional abrasion resistance and maintained grip strength. To learn how to tie this hitch visit the Autoblock tutorial. Attach VT Prusik to anchor (but not quick link). Ensures smooth operation and enhanced functionality in multiple climbing situations. They can slide up and down easily, but lock around the rope when weighted. Sep 6, 2021 · The Prusik knot is used to attach a loop of thin cord, called “Prusik slings,” to a climbing rope. How you hold your prussik matters. This article explains how to ascend a rope using prusiks Jan 3, 2024 · I personally use a Ropeman 1 on both my Tether and Lineman rope. May 22, 2023 · Safely perform a rappel pickoff using the CMC Clutch and AZTEK rescue pickoff system. Jul 27, 2025 · Check my full step-by-step guide on How to Rappel with a GriGri Belay Device, the holy grail of belay devices. Rappel Device Most tube-style belay devices (like an ATC) work for both single and double-strand rappels. By squeezing the top of the autobloc with your thumb and first two fingers, you can simultaneously hold back the autobloc so it Jan 8, 2024 · Continuing our dissection of ski mountaineering rappel systems, we explore various options for rappel extensions/tethers and third hands. Jun 12, 2025 · A prusik loop is a climbing harness that uses a cord to adjust the tightness of the safety rope. Now, you can also use this device to rappel without a prusik. For this, you’ll need two to three feet of cordelette (5mm or 6mm cord), looped via a double fisherman’s knot. Dec 5, 2024 · For rappelling, we preferred using manual mode with a prusik backup, as this is far and away the smoothest way to rappel, and feels just like any other tube-style device. Aug 17, 2024 · Test if it works; if so, add a prusik, remove yourself from the anchor, and start to rappel slowly, as you would with an ATC. Rappelling backups are an ongoing topic. This system has worked well over 100 climbs. The basic rappelling equipment consists of ropes, anchors, rappel devices, a locking carabiner, and a harness. Personally, I've used a Feb 7, 2017 · It was developed in 1931 by Austrian mountaineer Dr. If you use a different type of tether, some steps may vary. I mean, if you can rappel with a prusik above the plaquette, rather than below (such as in an extended rappel), then you should be able to do this safely without a brake strand redirect? Oh, that actually reminded me -- unless you're using a friction hitch that's load releaseable, you're going to have to undefeat the guide plate every time the friction hitch bites. square. Aug 25, 2022 · A Prusik (/ˈprʌsɪk/ PRUSS-ik) is a friction hitch or knot used to attach a loop of cord around a rope, applied in climbing, canyoneering, mountaineering, caving, rope rescue, ziplining, and by arborists. Reply reply More repliesMore replies Knowing how to prusik up a rope transforms a potential epic into a mere inconvenience. There are many ways to do this, but this one we have found is redundant and makes our team happy and confident Feb 22, 2020 · The main downside to the autoblock is that it creates less friction than either the prusik or the kleimheist. If needing to tie a Prusik knot midair, an Autoblock will be needed to safely hold the rappeller while freeing up their hands. Down prusik to them, render first aid if possible, go in direct to their descender, remove your prusiks, and take over the rappel to get you to a safe ledge or the ground and call for help. A prusik (also known as a friction hitch) is a short piece of cord which can be wrapped around your climbing rope to add friction. Nov 3, 2024 · Almost all climbers and mountaineers carry a prusik cord with them in the mountains primarily as a rappel backup and for self rescue situations. Prusik cord is an affordable and lightweight way to confirm that you live to hike another day. They are most commonly used for abseiling but are also incredibly useful in a variety of emergency situations such as ascending a rope or escaping the system. To tie a prusik, all you need is Jul 25, 2025 · The Prusik hitch self-belay is a simple and reliable method for providing backup protection during a rappel. It slides when unweighted but locks under load, making it a reliable knot. To make the auto block, use a webbing loop designed for this such the Sterling Hollow Block, or second choice, a short prusik loop (start with 1. Feb 1, 2013 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Jun 6, 2017 · Dakota, of Live Rogue, walks you through one way to rappel with a personal backup. Vertical and free-hanging rope rescues. An independent belay system offers a critical safety layer during rappelling operations by providing a backup to arrest a fall if the primary system fails. But, there’s three reasons why this is not the preferred method. A better approach is to be more creative with multi-use gear you're already carrying. This is a continuation of teaching the series of knots and skills needed to do a simple rappel with simple gear. It grips under load and releases even when loaded. 4K available for an extra charge after trial. ly/2LjasRB Sometimes you need to know how to get out of a tight spot, with the gear you have on you. It can be used as a rappel backup, to ascend a rope, to escape a belay, for glacier travel and for rescues. Dec 3, 2024 · Prusik Knots in Rope Systems The Prusik knot is a cornerstone of technical rope systems, widely regarded for its versatility and reliability. It’s great for ascending, and it’s a staple for crevasse rescue systems because it will grip the rope from In Rope Access/ Rescue, backup prusik/rope grab/fall arrestors are pretty common and seem pretty simple for extra safety when rappelling with non-autolocking descenders. The prusik isn’t meant to take the weight of the climber, just enough to break the rappel while still relying on the rappel device, carabiner, belay loop to bear the weight. The Autoblock knot is also known as the French Prusik knot. Extending your belay device before abseiling can be useful in certain situations. In this video I show Jun 8, 2016 · The two options are an autoblock hitch below the device (above) or putting a prusik hitch on both strands above the rappel device (below). I would guess most Saddle hunters use a Ropeman 1 on their tether. Whether it’s due to joined ropes, damaged sections, or limited rope length, the ability to pass a knot while rappelling can make the difference between a stalled operation and a successful The Prusik Knot (technically it’s a hitch) is the most common friction hitch. - Your prusik will be centred, making it easier to use than if you attach it to a leg loop. Backup Autoblock Hitch You’ll need a 24- to May 15, 2025 · The Autoblock knot, also called French Prusik knot, is a friction hitch used as a backup when rappelling. I was curious if there was a "perfect" way to do it or if it was to the climber decision. Apr 14, 2023 · The prusik knot is a versatile tool that can be used in various scenarios like rappelling. Wrap 2-3 times around both strands of rope (enough for it to grab), and clip other end to the same carabiner for the WAC Way. To ascend using a Prusik knot, two loops are used simultaneously. The Autoblock is a precautionary step that is recommended to be tied prior to the rappel. Mar 14, 2023 · INTEGRATED RAPPEL RING: Features a high-quality Omega Pacific Small Rappel Ring securely bound to the prusik cord. Advantages - You can use a prusik with less chance of it getting sucked into your belay device. " Off Belay, June 1977: An article titled "The Prusik Safety Strikes Again" tells (quoting 'Mugelnoos') of a rappeller who lost control of her rappel, then fell ten feet until her shirt tail tangled in her rappel device. I'm not a trad dad, but to me this seems a little bit scary; I can't quite put my finger on it but I absolutely prefer to instead use it as a normal ATC and with a prusik. It acts as an automatic 'dead man's handle' should the climber be incapacitated or need to use both hands. com : GM CLIMBING Black 6. I still see guys using a prusik knot on the linemans belt but I think the Ropeman 1 is a much better solution. By changing a few key things and learning a few new … Dec 11, 2014 · Seattle Climbing adopts new extended rappel and belay techniques in basic and intermediate courses. Jun 23, 2023 · To back up your rappel, many climbers use a third hand or autoblock (usually a Prusik, Machard, or similar friction hitch). Cancel anytime. Backing up a rappel can be a bit of a hassle, but once you are used to it it becomes second-nature. It’s bidirectional, so you can move the Prusik knot forward or backward along the rope line with ease, when under the right force or friction. Oct 15, 2021 · Rock climbers often use the Purcell Prusik loop, a popular friction hitch, as a personal anchor system to belay or rappel. The biggest disadvantage with both of these is that it takes extra time to put them together. - You can transition from abseiling to ascending easily – useful if you abseil too far on a multi-pitch descent Jun 21, 2024 · It goes below a rappel device and moves down the rope during a descent. Whether used in high-angle rescue, climbing, or rigging operations, the Prusik knot provides a lightweight, adaptable solution for progress capture, backup belay, and other critical applications. Jul 27, 2025 · How to Stay Safe When Rappelling Knowing how to use the ATC to rappel is just the beginning. Rappel Backup/Self-Belay Below The Device: A Prusik is placed below the descender and controlled with the brake hand. Jul 25, 2025 · Knot Passing on Rappel for Rescue and Technical Descent Knot passing is a critical skill in rope rescue and vertical operations, allowing a technician to descend past a rope knot safely and efficiently. The long cord is used as a foot as a stirrup, and the shorter cord is tied into the harness. I teach how to tie, check, and use a Prusik hitch as a safety belay backup. Extended Rappel w/ ATC: Clip the HollowBlock to your belay loop with a small, locking carabiner. While your setup here works having the prusik on the braking strands limits the amount of force applied to the prusik. Personal Anchor System (PAS) A personal anchor system (PAS) is an important addition for many rappels. Learn how here. Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. Dec 10, 2013 · 4. While it is often called a knot, the prusik it technically a hitch. Never once had an issue with it slipping or any other issue. To test, weight the hitch while still clipped in. Dec 19, 2013 · One solution to this issue, according to CMC, is a simple tactical rappel setup. Now let’s get into the guts of how to stay safe up high while rappelling! Use a Prusik A prusik is a length of accessory cord with both ends tied together using a fisherman’s knot to form a loop. In the evaluation, the Prusik safety is mentioned and "its use is a questionable practice. I review three of the more common options below in a long winded rant but threw in a few photos to keep you going. Jul 25, 2025 · Independent Belay Systems for Technical Rope Rescue In rope rescue, redundancy isn’t a luxury—it’s a requirement. This technique involves using a friction hitch, specifically the Prusik knot, to create a hands-free safety system that engages automatically if the rappeller loses control of their descent. It puts the belay device about 8 or so inches away from the harness and there is about 3-4 inches between that and my backup clipped into my belay loop. Does anyone have experience with this type of setup? Feb 10, 2020 · One great way to back up your rappel is with the use of a prusik knot. Terms apply. Munter Rappel: The HollowBlock carabiner gets clipped to your leg loop. Wrap VT Prusik around loaded rap-side rope very close to anchor, oriented to pull the rappeller upwards. Clip a double-length sling (or two girth-hitched single-length slings) to the prusik to serve as a foot loop. Then the slack in the rope will pull up with it and New users only. Using a paracord for rappelling and climbing might sound doable, at least on paper, but I'm here to explain why it isn't a good idea at all. Prusik Knot Applications: ascending a rope, backing up a rappel, holding a rope for emergency rescue purposes The Prusik Knot is a versatile way of attaching a loop of cordage to a larger rope. The autoblock functions as your “third hand” rappel backup, and let you go hands-free on the rappel at any time. Is there a perfect way to backup Dec 12, 2022 · Jordan Peterson Letting your third-hand backup hold the weight of your rappel, fashion a prusik above your belay device around both strands of the rope using another prusik, a sling, or your 6mm chalk-bag cord. Buy VT Prussik's: https://northwashoutfitters. Attach any rope grab to the rap rope as far from the anchor as is easily reachable from the top. Jun 2, 2024 · An extended rappel works great with an autoblock “third hand” rappel backup. Specifically, it jams tight after a significant load and cannot be reliably broken under load while holding our body weight, in order to transition into rappel. . It’s typically used in high-risk climbing situations, like when you need to rapidly ascend a cliff face or rappel down a cliff face. This loop of cord is then wrapped around the rope as a prusik hitch, which is then clipped to the leg The Prusik is a handy knot to know how to tie and use in emergency situations and rescue operations. In this guide, we explore the Prusik knot’s role in rope Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. It then cinches the rappel rope when the climber stops. When properly tied, a third hand will grip your rappel strands and lock your rappel device. Mar 27, 2022 · Lose that leg prusik! Did you learn in Climbing 101 to always carry a leg and a waist prusik loop so you can ascend a rope in a self rescue situation? Truth is, these are rarely needed, especially in rock climbing. Prusik - Friction Rappel Backup/Self-Belay Below The Device: A Prusik is placed below the descender and controlled with the brake hand. Jul 19, 2018 · Prusik A climber can ascend a toprope with the help of paracord prusiks. Four types of prusik knot Apr 29, 2023 · Backing up a Rappel The most common application for friction hitches like the standard prusik or the French prusik in rock climbing is as a backup for rappels, also known as a third hand. Would love to hear your In general I would consider looking up an extended rappel. Nov 14, 2024 · Checking Your Rappel Gear Your standard climbing gear doubles as rappel gear, with a few additional essentials. This can be remedied by adding more ‘wraps’ of the autoblock around your rappel ropes and by checking your autoblock’s ability to ‘grab’ the rope before you start your rappel. You mule off the belay device, release the prusik, then release the mule. 8mm Endless Prusik Loop 15-inch 100% Technora 25kN Heat Resistant Friction Hitch Cord Hollow Braid for Rappel Abseil Backup, Adjustable Anchor Set-up, Rescue Rigging Hammocks : Sports & OutdoorsAbout this item GM CLIMBING 6. Get some DMM rigging gear: http://bit. When I pull slack through the ascender, it pushes the prusik up the cord, but if the ascener (a ropeman 1 in my case) literally broke in half, the prusik would catch on the carabiner and tighten on the line as soon as I fell. Dress the prusik and lock your biner. Aug 26, 2022 · In Part 5 of this series, Alice shows Clare how to abseil/rappel from the top of a crag. Quick Tying Guide: Autoblock Knot To tie an autoblock knot, wrap the hitch cord around the rappel ropes four to five times. However, there are a range of options when it comes to prusik material and of course each has its strengths and weaknesses. We most often lowered climbers in assist mode, because that is how we usually belayed them. Petlz seem to encourage to tie the prusik below the ATC to the belay loop and having the ATC "far" from your belay loop : picture related I Placing a prusik hitch above your rappel device might initially seem like a good way to backup your rappel. Learning the pros and cons of this hitch can help climbers understand the best situations to utilize it in. Prusik cords are used for making Say the first down on rappel got hit by rock fall and was unresponsive while held in place by their third hand. Jun 3, 2022 · To make your third hand, girth-hitch your prusik around the rope at least three times and use a locking biner to clip it to your belay loop (fig. It attaches to your harness with a girth hitch through both tie-in points. I use a double eye prusik cord tied in a swabisch hitch to backup my ascender while climbing. Jul 10, 2025 · The Prusik Knot (ABoK #1763) is a friction hitch used for climbing and rappelling. 8mm Endless Prusik Loop, 15" length, 25kN /5600Lbs, made of 100% Technora for increased durability and performance, 16-strands hollow braid Having a prusik around 2 ropes can be for a handful on contexts, but this was looking through the view point of a SAR (Search and Rescue) lens. Hold the autobloc back while you rappel. Apr 17, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Video - How to make a Prusik loop for a rappel backup? This video explains how to make a Prusik loop for a rappel backup. Ensure you always have one hand on the prusik and one hand on the rope. Karl Prusik (not prussik) and within a few years it became a must-know skill. What happens when you head down a rappel on double rope and at some point realize that you have to come back up the rope for whatever reason while wearing a backpack? A scenario indeed, one more Jan 27, 2021 · Trying to understand the scenario: So you were hanging from the quad anchor (no ledge to stand on) and then also supported by the ATC rappel, with prussik backup? Trying to shift weight from quad anchor onto rappel? And connected a sling with knots in it to the prussik and stood up on that? You couldn't connect the sling ladder directly to the rap bolts/chain/rings? Or do a pull-up to them This video was made with a saddle hunter in mind and shows how to safely transition from a tree tether, tied off with a prusik cord, to a figure 8 or other device for a rappel down the tree once Aug 11, 2017 · A prusik hitch is an invaluable tool when rock climbing, traveling across glaciers, climbing ropes, etc. When tying a prussik, you have two options: you can place it above the rappel device, or you can place it below on the same strand of rope that your brake hand is on. At that point the Prusik safety While generally for emergencies, the best prusik cord is a precious addition to any hiker’s harness. Warnings Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. I also prefer to use a klemheist or auto block over a prusik for ease of tying, but a prusik works just fine. Originally designed for canyoneering, the VT Prusik has applications in other rope-related disciplines as well, including tree climbing, rock climbing, mountaineering, caving, rappelling and technical rescue. This is often referred to as a “Third Hand. ” Additionally, you should also use a fireman’s belay at the bottom to slow you down in case you lose control. Use two hands below your rappel device, one to control the rope speed and the other for your autobloc. Some people prefer to have the prusik on their leg loop, others use the belay loop. Someone is stuck on rappel with a static block. When rappelling, why would you put a prusik/autoblock below the rappel device instead of above it? On a canyoneering trip this weekend with a buddy who is a proficient climber, he insisted the best way to use an autoblock is below the rappel device on the brake strand, with the autoblock clipped to a leg loop. If you pull on the cord while it’s attached to the safety rope. The prusik knot is used for an effective prusik rappel backup, but can slip if you grip it to strong. To backup a rappel you need to I make mine large enough to prusik onto the rope. However the climber should also be tied into the climbing rope for extra fall protection. The Prusik knot is also useful to back up a rappel or belay. An autoblock is an optional but often used addition. more The BlueWater VT Prusik was designed in conjunction with Rich Carlson. Using a simple prusik hitch, hikers can safely protect themselves from many dangers using the prusik cord when rappelling without causing high harm to your rope. The principle behind the prusik loop is this. A hard pull on the prusik hitch with both hands may get it to slide. Hi! I was curious to know how redditor are doing your rappel : I've learned to have a prusik knot above my ATC as this image but I've seen others technique to do it. Back-up systems include extra rope to use as safety back-up known as prusik and personal anchor tether (also known as personal anchor system). A climbing helmet, hiking shoes, gloves, and of course, comfortable clothes are a must if you are going rappelling. When it sets, you don't try to open up the prusik. Your putting your life out there over the edge of a cliff and When tying a prussik, you have two options: you can place it above the rappel device, or you can place it below on the same strand of rope that your brake hand is on. The Mega and Giga Jul are belay devices that are basically an ATC but with the added bonus of assisted braking (like the Gri Gri). The Prusik is the most commonly known friction hitch, and although it holds well, it has poor overall performance in climbing applications. This allows use of both hands when tying the Prusik. May 15, 2023 · Amazon. Nylon Accessory Cord: Various lengths and diameters An autoblock has the potential risk of jamming your rappel device, which is why you would want to use a prusik above the device. 4; if not extending your rappel, clip it to your leg loop). Auto-block - Backup when rappelling, we use the Sterling HollowBlock for this. READ MORE HERE. I've personally have done a prusik backup on a figure 8 rappel (<50') but I have been wondering about the implementation of one on longer drops 150'+ with a rack descender. This ‘preflight check’ is something that should be done with any backup and should be a part of Feb 2, 2019 · Placing a prusik hitch above your rappel device might initially seem like a good way to backup your rappel. wmmzo mvidk jfcikr pmbfx wza vdzvskx dul sqimw vvz rbwff