Top rope belay reddit. And yes we are scared of falling.

Top rope belay reddit. I generally prefer to clove hitch into the master point, attached a 2nd locker for my follower to clip into, and use a reverso on Due to health issues, it's hard for me to stand upright for a long time. I look at the webbing tether for any worn or damaged looking I'm not asking how to belay, as I have the technique down pat at this point. That being said, I have had no I read about belay glasses here a couple months ago, and I've since started seeing people use them with greater frequency at my local gym. We have 90 minutes to climb as many routes as possible, and collect Hi! Just started climbing, and I've only done top rope and bouldering so far, but in all of the professional climbing I've seen, everyone is climbing lead. I've seen the Edelrid Pinch and love the fact that you can clip it directly to the belay loop. I started splitting my time between top rope and bouldering at my gym. Underneath It was two 3-hour sessions, the first session we only did lead+top-rope belay just to get the moves and feeling down, the second session we actually lead-belayed and had to take some pretty large falls to know how that felt. New harness advice: Image is the user guide for my new harness, and I've been told the opposite in the past i. And yes we are scared of falling. I really liked the Grigri for top roping. You also must be able to top rope belay with an ATC (tube-style device). Sometimes when belaying people, I feel like I'm not giving them enough slack. Is it unsafe to to top rope belay by From the sounds of things, neither of you know what you are doing. The setup, the process, and tips for toprope soloing (TR solo). Here are some tips and the best method for giving a good toprope belay, whether you’re using a tube device like an ATC or a brake-assisted belay device like the grigri. I noticed recently that my partner's technique has shifted, and now he will pull the rope through with one hand on the top rope, and the other pulling on the brake rope. Backup can be a second rope, knots, a second device, etc. ” ~Sir Martin Conway There are a lot of good options for top rope soloing, I only provided 2 So i'm looking for a simple slip on shoe that can be used both indoor and outdoor for belaying and moving from route to route without the faf of putting on my socks and normal shoes every time. Top Rope Soloing Devices “A man does not climb a mountain without bringing some of it away with him and leaving something of himself upon it. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners However, habits like these lead to pretty terrible belay technique that increases the chances of fucking up when you’re not using a grigri. I did a course on top rope, auto belay and bouldering and during the course I was able to rappel down but since then I’ve been getting more and more anxious when it comes As far as clipping, at my gym it is standard practice for newer people to top rope but have their lead rope tied in and dangling and they just clip as they go up. I’m a petite 135lb woman who realized, “wow, the friction of this rope is getting crazy hot,” [when lowering]. Roped climbing in any form takes more equipment- harness, rope, helmet, belay device and eventually QuickDraws and stuff to make anchors if you are going to sport or top rope outside. and metal work can go through the belay loop. Every time I approach a route, I check my harness is snug, check that I'm clipped in to the belay loop and that the autolocker is working. You should also become more comfortable rappelling because it's a pretty What Is Belaying? How to Belay for Top Rope This article will answer the question, what is belaying? It will stress how important belaying is in rock climbing – how it is the most important The top rope belay is the first rock climbing belay that everyone learns, yet some people still struggle with doing it the right way. The belayer should listen to the climber and follow their preferences unless they have a very explicit reason not to. This device can connect directly to the harness (or anchor for a top down belay) My usual preference for building an anchor on trad routes is the standard three piece system using a cordalette. Complete Guide to Top Rope Belaying - Tips & Common mistakes. While I am physically able to safely belay while standing, it costs me a lot of energy that I'd rather save for recovery if possible. After stopping things On several climbs where I was belaying and one where I was on the wall, the belay and climber ropes had twisted. She doesn't feel comfortable with me doing that so obviously I will stop but my question for you guys is this. TR soloing is a great way to get in quick sessions, put in more laps, keeping warm on cold days, or when you're following a pitch and then hauling up a backpack. The placket is that an effective backup. 8/5. I don’t really like the routes at my gym because they are mostly straight up and down with no interesting wall features or volumes. I mainly top rope solo sustained, thin, and slabby climbs so stopping to manually feed the slack through does not make for a smooth climb. Two micro traxions, shunt, gri gri (must be annoying to always tighten the rope). Learn how to belay. S. Plus I want to dip my toes in some lead climbing this season. ” First, load the rope through your belay device such that the strand leading to the climber A rope protector or padding would be nice for that sling over the edge. How to top-rope belay The most common technique for top-rope belaying is called the “PBUS” method. Solid anchor on two trees, simple climb, thus allowing me to just drag in the slack along the way, in essence reversing It’ll be my main focus/goal for this outdoor season. Does anyone have experience with the Pinch? How does it feel compared to the Grigri? Is it good for lead? Thanks! I just had my first solo top rope send, using a basic rapell setup with a normal brake and prusik, on my dynamic rope. So if you weigh 60kg, you are able to belay a 90kg person @ a toprope. The limit at lead climbing is suggested to be the half of toproping: So it would be 125% (60kg belaying a 75kg person). If I tie myself in and tie backup Kind of cathartic considering some of the nonsense I had when testing people. I have been looking for any official Prusik is an absolute disaster for rope soloing. We can probably learn just as much from the mistakes of the average climber as the expertise Hey guys, I recently signed up for a top rope / auto belay carnival style comp. Lead climbing is a true equalizer because you can't just pull past hard moves, you actually have to solve them. Most of my anticipated outdoor projects this year are at least double that length. P. My question is, how can I improve my stamina and endurance without pumping out Take a belay test any time the main wall is open, and you'll be able to belay everyone as you see fit. Reply reply JohnnyMacGoesSkiing • Oh, I didn't read it fully - is this referring to top rope only? If so, the grigri is pretty straightforward. Then you have the non-load bearing chest harness to keep the micro trax upright like so. I'm currently considering whether to toprope belay in the gym while sitting down, either on the floor or on a simple chair with Improper clipping, maybe less so but we always climb with double beans if top rope/auto-belay. Top belaying is often awkward in the best situations, I can't imagine doing it if there were an alternative. After watching Jeff Lowe’s metanoia I’ve been wonder what techniques he used to self-belay as he climbed? Did he leave gear Curious if anyone knows of any decent top-rope gyms in Tokyo? I know bouldering gyms are a dime a dozen (Apparently B-Pump is the best of that lot?), but it's hard to find a place with any top ropes (let alone autobelayers). This makes lead climbing both more dangerous and more difficult. You should talk with them about this, and if they are still adamant, stop climbing with them. Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. As his climber moved up the wall. Just wondering what everyone else’s If I am setting up a top rope anchor, in this case a quad, do I need locking biners or am I able to safely use non-locking biners? I usually use 2-3 alternating gates when setting up my quad and don't see a way that the rope could come out of any of the biners. There are instructions for leading solo on a grigri online. By belaying from above, you halve the length of 2) Toprope belaying is doable up to 150% of your own weight. Top rope climbing, as I mentioned above, is a climbing style in which you ascend a route while attached to a rope, which is then anchored at the top of the climbing surface. A pair of Roll'n'lock, Kong Duck, Microtrax or other progression pulley devices without aggressive tooth action is where most people end up for toprope soloing. My climbing gym only has 24ft top rope/autobelay walls. As his climber started up the wall he let go of the brake strand, held the cam shut on the grigri and started feeding slack out. ) I don't just teach my students how to belay; I teach them the core Here's a pic of my setup, Similar to the petzl setup, micro trax extended with a sling with alpine butterfly girthed through the tie in loops. 9 climbs in a session. In fact the ACMG teaches that as a valid technique even for beginners. Belaying From Above While Top Rope Climbing In situations where you would like to minimize rope stretch when top rope belaying, you might choose to belay from above. I treat it like top-rope soloing outdoors. But if you're doing normal top rope climbing, your belayer has a belay device, and that's it, no backup. Thanks for the reply. Any slippage at all will very quickly melt though the thing. My trad mentor has expressed that he's not a fan of using anything other than single ropes for parties or three but admits he has no experience with climbers of three in parallel in his 20+ years of climbing. (I can't always find a partner I want to spend time with that climbs at my level and I want to I am thinking about starting to top rope soloing on one of my projects, and I see so many opinions on the best way to do this. At the moment it's just top rope fundamentals and he seems to understand somewhat, just I also don't waste time teaching people to belay on an ATC. The real LOL anyway has anyone had a similar experience or done a belay course and found it really helpful ? I also struggle to make female climbing friends which is pretty annoying. Why is this? Isn't top rope a little safer, as there basically aren't falls? So sorry if I sound a bit ignorant but my girlfriend found out today that I've been belaying her on top rope as I would for lead. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. Edit: Here's the video I had to re upload the video since it cut off the end for some reason And also, my belay partners and I are at the maximum recommended weight difference for the use of the ohm. The channel Yann Camus Blissclimbing has some videos on the shunt and how it has failed in real life, as well as some alternative devices to use. The rope must be tunnelled, so you can’t open your hand up, but the benefit is that it keeps the rope in the brake position, whereas with slip slap Last week while working a private, I had the pleasure of belaying a 300lb man with an atc (top rope). So, what’s the difference between top roping and lead climbing? Top roping you’re supported from above, while lead climbing you’re always above your rope. My favourite was a guy who came in to do his top rope test with a bunch of draws and gear on his harness. Some people remove the little tab on the grigri and grind / sand it smooth so the grigri will orient correctly in a Even though there are bolted anchors available, it is still generally much easier to belay from the top of these climbs, though often large groups set up a slingshot belay on 3 climbs and hog them all day. As a community, climbers have typically impressed my by being very safety conscious and reliable Grigri top rope solo Hey r/climbing, I'm trying to practice a route that I want to free solo (nothing crazy but long) and I'm considering buying a grigri so that I could setup a top rope and belay myself for practice. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Either get two folks two belay you, use an autobelay system to replace the top rope, or you can just have a loose rope dangling to practice clipping without having a lead belayer. Currently reading through a lot of these types of books when I came across some disagreement in parallel climbing for teams of three. After exceeding this 150%, you should consider an extra anchor point. Wanted redundancy, limited extension, and the master point below the ledge. PINCH Basic Functions | EDELRID A new Grigri like device from Edelrid with an interesting extra feature or two, but one in particular that makes me nervous. When the climber is just leaving the ground, however, pull the rope as taut as possible to To take a lead lesson, you must be top-rope belay certified at the Aviary and be able to top rope three 5. purdue. Either You then rap down or walk around and then climb up. I'm looking to buy my first belay device. These articles explain how to belay using a top rope system and how to climb safely at an indoor climbing wall. The physicality is identical (for top rope belaying. The rope is usually fed through an anchor system I’m certified at my University’s wall, I’m wondering if when I try to toprope at other gyms, do most make you certify again, or just run a quick Hier sollte eine Beschreibung angezeigt werden, diese Seite lässt dies jedoch nicht zu. I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. Saw this and it seemed like a generally safe practice? Much better than lead rope soloing. Feedback on what stupid crap I did appreciated! Top rope anchor? The stance was awkward and I had limited gear (I had been using the slings to tie quads earlier). The home of Climbing on reddit. If all you are doing is top rope and and single rope lead belaying, the GriGri, Mega Jul, and Cinch will be fine. New to climbing with a harness Are you taking a belay test soon and wondering how to pass your belay certification? Learning how to belay is an important skill for any climber. Side track over. edu/ -> Climbing and Challenge Climb Lafayette Looking for more of a focused climbing experience on awesome Petzl's new Neox is a sleek assisted-braking belay device. According to the charts I have seen this all lines up (the trad downgrade being a purely fear thing which I’m working on). Top Rope Belay Technique To give a solid top rope belay, you should always check your system for safety, then follow the PBUS protocol (see below) to belay. I'm pretty new only been climbing for 3 months but I've started to take out some of my friends, and when we go, I find some lead climbs (within my level), lead them, and once at the top set up the anchor, belay down and then allow my friends to top rope it. When you’re ready to learn how to be a self-sufficient climber – to top rope belay and tie yourself in to climb – you will have to attend a belay class, offered by most gyms with roped climbing walls. I top rope at 5. Reply reply more repliesMore replies zombie_fletcher • Reply reply more repliesMore replies mrsciencebruh • Reply reply more repliesMore The GigaJule is assisted belay when he wants, standard tuber when he doesn’t, doesn’t freeze up, can be used for positioning on a fixed rope for top rope anchors, and as a progress capture device/ guide mode belay device. Thanks for any info! I'm trying to teach my boyfriend to belay, but I'm having problems because It's only me and him. My only idea so far is a croc (or similar cheaper version), just wondering if this is something other people do when climbing and if so what do you wear?. I'm quite light so I have to admit it is possible to belay someone double my weight but it does put strain on my body and well in a way frustrating from the side that I do much more "work" than my partners with belaying. What’s your preference: fingerless Learn the safest methods for toprope belaying. If you're new to rock climbing, this will lay the foundation for future belaying skills. The Cinch or other Grigri like devices are popular but tend to require to much fiddling to get the rope to feed for my taste. The climber had to back over or under the belay rope to fix it. Also I see a knot to the anchor, is this for top rope solo? If so you could use the rope itself to make the anchor as long as you properly mitigate abrasion risks, these are Clipping the rope adds a totally different dynamic to the climb. Anything to make it easier is enticing to me. Hey All, I'm looking to do some toprope self-belay. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. 11-, trad 5. I’ve had to basically reteach people how to belay properly that learned on a grigri without My local gym requires PBUS (pull brake under slide) technique for top rope belaying, but they're totally fine with tunnel method for lead belaying. more. It would be ideal to have a 3rd person that he can belay while I watch to make sure everything is okay. Currently I can only belay top rope, but I will take a lead course in a few weeks. 12a max, sport lead 5. PBUS for taking in slack on lead is just too many movements and you never want to If the anchor is marginal I belay off by belay or rope loop (depending on what’s easier to get to) Also the British MTA distinguish the two belay setups as toprope vs bottom rope if I haven’t miss understood Two micro traxions one rope. Most likely I won't buy a (semi-)static rope, so I will just use my dynamic one. I’m pretty certain we had checked that they were not twisted before we I've been top-rope belaying using a variation of the PBUS method where, instead of placing my left hand under my right, I place my left hand over my right to slide my right hand up. My first impression of the glasses is that they seem inherently unsafe, or at the very least less safe than looking directly at your climber. In the gym on top rope, have your belay partner give you a little slack and not take in too much especially on hard moves. Read below for tips below on the basics of top While many belay devices are symmetrical, some feature a grooved inner surface on one side of each tube, offering additional friction for belaying a heavier climber or managing a thinner or Though the principles of belaying are the same whether it is for a lead climber or a top-rope climber, certain technical practices differ. If you can belay on a Grigri, you can belay on an ATC. Many climbing gyms will ask to see your belay certification or do a test before you You want to go climb at an indoor climbing gym but aren't sure what you need to know. Hier sollte eine Beschreibung angezeigt werden, diese Seite lässt dies jedoch nicht zu. Lead climbing is simple, it's the belaying that actually is the dangerous/tough part. 9, and boulder at V3 with the occasional V4. Meaning instead of using 2 hands on the brake strand I just slide my brake hand up the rope as you would for lead. It's when you have to consider whether you will also be needing a device to double rope lead belay, rappel (double rope), and top belay whether single or double rope that it becomes an issue. Reply reply more repliesMore repliesMore repliesMore replies jackxc925 • Fear when rappelling down - top rope Hey Climbers! I’m a fairly new climber deciding to take up the sport to improve my upper body and tackle a fear of heights. TIL the ACMG considers standard top rope belay technique to be like training wheels - Here's what they recommend. Two micro-traxions or a micro-traxion and an ascender down below works really well. This got me thinking about belay gloves. Lead belaying is a little trickier. If the gate rests on the rock or something I can definitely see how a locking biner would provide some peace of mind, but in 1. Since top-rope belaying is simpler, it might God damn it was so much fun. 10+/5. Quality of Life tips: Team up with I top rope only when other people I climb with force me to belay. If you plan on rope climbing, learn what to expect to pass a belay test. Some things feel a little easier on lead like overhangs because you're not being After having my belay partners cancel for the 4th time in a row, I am really starting to think of picking up a solo setup for low-grade solo TR. Here’s the rundown. Any hidden gems?? Also, are memberships not a thing? A lot of places seem to be day passes only. A description of the proper method of toprope belaying, and a discussion of some of other important considerations in toprope belay. On top rope. You would still need a partner but I wouldn’t be as stressed finding someone competent to top rope belay. If I top rope solo with two micro traxions on one rope am I going to die? Am I already dead? Whenever I read threads about top rope solo, everyone agrees on using one device to self-belay, and some kind of backup in case your belay device malfunctions. I went to a new indoor climbing gym and got called out for An in depth step by step guide on how to belay plus information and explanations to answer the question of what is belaying? When you're using a carabiner, whether that be to belay another, rappel, or clip into an auto-belay you don't have to worry about friction between the metal and your harness, so it is appropriate to clip into your belay loop; that's why it's there. Green sling is doubled over and knotted. That’s why bouldering is more approachable to beginners. PBUS stands for “Pull, Brake, Under, Slide. Wall times and reservations for time slots to climb at the top-rope wall are all located at https://recwell. When you belay someone on toprope, keep the rope a little loose, rather than taut, once the climber gets a few body lengths up the climb. The GriGri is going to be a real pain to self-belay. Is this really bad? What setup should I go for? Went for my first top rope self-belay at Great Falls VA yesterday. It’s the first time I’ve ever belayed someone with such disparity between my weight and theirs. How does it stack up to the Grigri? We put it to the test. If your friend can't give you a tight toprope belay without dropping you, they are a shitty belayer. We don't know anyone in the area as we just moved, but there are tons of climbing areas. I didn't think about the rope aspect yet. I also kept getting smacked in the face and chest with the carabiner (is that what it’s called?). What is your 'rule of thumb' or whatever for how tight the rope should be? thanks Who is this Gumby? Slip slap slide is a stupid way to belay and far more dangerous than sliding your brake hand up the rope without bringing the second hand down. e. These classes are usually I have used the grigri for self belay on top rope a bunch and it seems fine. 31 votes, 41 comments. don't use the belay loop with a rope. I wasn’t a huge fan. jdeewin miibgw gqhoj rqfoh gijla yknxdq ynpyb xyl flwhr hbfnl